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- Buying a Used Ansmann Virus 2 Buggy..
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Bearings - Make the best of them. Bearings - Which to Buy and Why. Bumpsteer - What it is and how to avoid. Camber - The easy way to improve handling. Caster - To help your car go faster. Dampers - What they do and How they work. Drifting Tips - A step by step guide. Driving Tips - Drive fast, drive smooth. Droop - For more Stability and Grip. Electric Motors - Tune for Top Performance.
ESC - History and Advice. Gearing your Car to Win. Gear Mesh - Setting Tips. How to Repair a broken Plastic Part.
Ansmann Virus 2
Radio - Choice and avoid Problems. Ride Height - Find the optimum setting. Roll Center - What it is and affects.
Servos - Types and Advice. Sway Bars for Radio Controlled Models. Tires - for Buggys, Trucks and Truggys. Tires - for Carpet Racing and Drifting. Tires - for On-Road Tarmac Racing. Toe Angle - For Steering and Stability. Weight - Reduction tips and suggestions.
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Wheel Balancing - for improved Stability. The model was shaft driven, on an alloy plate chassis, with 3 x gear type differentials, coil spring over oil filled dampers, rear dogbones, with front universal joint drive-shafts, and ball bearings. To race the Ansmann Virus 2. Even the smallest adjustment can change the feel of a car, and our simple to follow instructions will guide you to the best Set-up to get you to the front and keep you there. Our basic instructions will help you set-up and fine tune the Nitro Engine for your Virus 2.
With a few simple tips, we will show you how to easily avert Radio interference, and Servo problems, by simply repositioning the receiver or using some of the latest developments. Learn how to combat friction and get more from your Ansmann Virus 2. Buying a Used Ansmann Virus 2 Buggy. None of the old tires had any kind of internal support, because the hard compound they were made of didn't need it.
But that was before the newer soft compounds were developed. These new tires were so soft that if some kind of insert was not used they would just lay flat under the weight of the car. Thus, the new science of tire inserts was born. The basic soft foam inserts that come with many off-road rubber tires can be in one of two types.
They can be basic rings of sponge, or the cheap and nasty strips of sponge. Both will often need some work done to them before they are inserted into the tires. Most of the top off-road drivers will carefully trim the edges of each sponge where they make contact with the inside of the tires. The idea is to reduce the effect of any hard edge when the tire hits the ground. If this is beneficial is debatable, but those I talked to said it does improve grip when cornering.
On-road cars on the other hand have the luxury of only having to make the choice between hard, medium and soft, molded sponge or rubber inserts that fit snugly inside the wheels and I can testify, the effect of these inserts can make a big difference on the track. When you get to the race track, the first thing you check is the track temperature. This gives you an insight into which tire to try first. In my hay day, I would use three compounds, soft medium and hard, each prepared, glued to the wheels with soft, medium and hard inserts, so a total of nine sets of wheels with tires and inserts.
Depending on the track temperature, my first practice session would be with the medium insert, then depending on the grip I got from those, I would either stick with them or for more grip try the softer insert. If the car had too much grip and a tendency to over-steer I would move on to the harder insert. Once the right tire and insert combination is found, only then I would try other settings to improve the cars handling. Remember, one change at a time. Generally, the manufacturer will suggest one particular piston in the car manual, and may provide you with a mid range oil weight, but depending on the type of terrain you intend to race your model, their suggestion may not be the best for your needs.
When it comes to tuning your dampers there are basically two things you need to know about pistons.
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Pack, is the speed your damper reacts to any quick compression and can be considered to be a consequence of the size or number of holes in the piston. Smaller holes, more pack, larger holes, less pack. Static Damping is the amount of resistance you sense when slowly pulling or pushing the piston rod in and out of the damper.
As with pack, this is related to the number or size of the piston holes. Larger holes, less static damping, smaller holes more static damping. Setting up your dampers is a matter of trial and error. With the car in full race mode, that means with everything installed, place it on a table, then pick up the rear of the car, raising it around six inches and drop it onto the table. The chassis should dip slightly below then back up again to the pre-set ride height, in one smooth movement.